Description:

Jackie Kennedy Handwritten Note Re: Oleg Cassini Designed "red chiffon dress" and "black suit"

An autograph letter comprised of nearly 50 words in the hand of First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy (1929-1994). Undated but docketed May 11, 1962 at upper right. On watermarked stationery with "The White House / Washington" embossed at top. Jackie's secretary, Mary Barelli Gallagher, made the bold check marks indicating the tasks were completed, and Gallagher's initials appear at upper right. The letter was folded and addressed to "Mary Gal" verso, also endorsed in Jackie's hand. Provenance: From the personal property of the Estate of Oleg Cassini.

Jackie Kennedy instructed Gallagher to contact Oleg Cassini's secretary Kay McGowan regarding two articles of clothing. The asymmetrical red chiffon dress mentioned in the letter was almost certainly one of the 300 outfits designed by Oleg Cassini for Jackie Kennedy between 1961-1963. (The origins of the black suit are more uncertain, though "Lee" undoubtedly referred to Jackie's younger sister Princess Lee Radziwill (1933-2019).

In full, with unchanged spelling and punctuation:

"Mary -

Please call Kay McGowan Tell her when they make red chiffon dress with one shoulder - not to have the shoulder transparent - It should have lining same as bodice

2) Also ask her if this black suit she sent back is the original belonging to Lee".

Oleg Cassini (1913-2006) had been selected to become Jackie's exclusive fashion designer-- or "Secretary of Style"--because he had a concrete vision of what Jackie's clothing would look like, and more importantly, what it would represent. Her evening gowns, day wear, suits, coats, hats, and accessories would create a distinctive "Jackie look" that would mark the reign of the new "American Queen."

Cassini wrote in "A Thousand Days of Magic: Dressing Jacqueline Kennedy for the White House" (New York: Rizzoli International Publications, 1995): "Jackie reminded me of an ancient Egyptian princess--very geometric, even hieroglyphic, with the sphinx-like quality of her eyes, her long neck, slim torso, broad shoulders, narrow hips, and regal carriage…I wanted to dress her cleanly, architecturally, in style. I would use the most sumptuous fabrics in the purest interpretations…I was proposing a new look, a new concept, my interpretation of how Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy should appear in her role as First Lady…[I] told her that she needed a story, a scenario as First Lady" (p. 15-18).

Cassini's vision of Jackie as First Lady coincided with her own, and the two successfully collaborated to set major worldwide fashion trends. In Jackie's wardrobe, you could find all the classic elements of 60s mod--A-line dresses in bright colors and bold patterns, strapless gowns with elbow-length gloves, tailored suits, fur-trimmed coats with oversized collars, buttons, and pockets, and of course, pillbox hats.

Mary Barelli Gallagher served as secretary to then Massachusetts Senator John F. Kennedy between 1953-1956, and as private secretary to Jackie Kennedy between 1956-1964. Some of Gallagher's recollections are shared in her 1969 "My Life with Jacqueline Kennedy".

This item comes with a Certificate from John Reznikoff, a premier authenticator for both major 3rd party authentication services, PSA and JSA (James Spence Authentications), as well as numerous auction houses.

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