Description:

Jackie Kennedy's Annotated Christian Dior Design, to Inspire Future Oleg Cassini Designs

A double-sided fashion magazine page annotated with 20+ words in the hand of First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy (1929-1994). Jackie's notes would inform the subsequent designs of Oleg Cassini (1913-2006), Jackie's exclusive fashion designer. An evening gown and modified cape offered by Christian Dior is shown in black and white recto; while a Jean Dessès design in canary yellow is pictured verso. Expected wear, including an unevenly torn edge and isolated paperclip impressions and closed tears. Else very good. The page measures 8.45" x 12.75". Provenance: From the personal property of the Estate of Oleg Cassini.

Jackie has written: "Good idea for / wrap to go with this / dress - different for a / change as stole is / hard to manage in pictures" above the description for a Christian Dior "backswept shawl romantically back-fastened by a bow." Jackie's fashion sense extended beyond mere aesthetics to practicality; she was photographed frequently enough at public appearances to know what was difficult to wear during such occasions.

Oleg Cassini designed 300 outfits for Jackie between 1961-1963. Cassini had been selected to become Jackie's "Secretary of Style" because he had a concrete vision of what Jackie's clothing would look like, and more importantly, what it would represent. Her evening gowns, day wear, suits, coats, hats, and accessories would create a distinctive "Jackie look" that would mark the reign of the new "American Queen."

Cassini noted in "A Thousand Days of Magic: Dressing Jacqueline Kennedy for the White House" (New York: Rizzoli International Publications, 1995): "Jackie reminded me of an ancient Egyptian princess--very geometric, even hieroglyphic, with the sphinx-like quality of her eyes, her long neck, slim torso, broad shoulders, narrow hips, and regal carriage…I wanted to dress her cleanly, architecturally, in style. I would use the most sumptuous fabrics in the purest interpretations…I was proposing a new look, a new concept, my interpretation of how Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy should appear in her role as First Lady…[I] told her that she needed a story, a scenario as First Lady. " (p. 15-18)

Cassini's vision of Jackie coincided with her own, and the two successfully collaborated to set major worldwide fashion trends. In Jackie's wardrobe, you could find all the classic elements of 60s mod--A-line dresses in bright colors and bold patterns, strapless gowns with elbow-length gloves, tailored suits, fur-trimmed coats with oversized collars, buttons, and pockets, and of course, pillbox hats.

This item comes with a Certificate from John Reznikoff, a premier authenticator for both major 3rd party authentication services, PSA and JSA (James Spence Authentications), as well as numerous auction houses.

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June 10, 2020 10:30 AM EDT
Wilton, CT, US

University Archives

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