University Archives

Lot 163

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Jackie Kennedy's Own Annotated Fashion Sketch Submitted to Oleg Cassini: "…must have it"

An original fashion sketch prepared by First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy (1929-1994) for one of her own ensembles, and inscribed with 35 words in her hand, ca. 1961-1963. The sketch was submitted to Jackie's official fashion designer and sartorial guru, Oleg Cassini (1913-2006). Provenance: From the personal property of the Estate of Oleg Cassini.

The hand-drawn sketch in pen is on a leaf of beige onion skin paper surrounded by annotations in pen and pencil. Jackie has sketched a 2-piece ensemble comprised of a blue day dress and matching coat. At lower left, Jackie has written: "*I love this coat / so slim + neat / must have it." At upper right, Jackie makes a note about materials: "*This is a divine coating / material + color - not for this model / but another." And at lower right, Jackie has written: "Montreal / Navy shantung dress + matching wool / coat / straw hat." ("Shantung" refers to a type of silk historically associated with Shandong province in eastern China.) Expected wear including wrinkles, two tiny holes at top, and some scattered pin holes, else near fine. 8.5" x 11."

Jackie Kennedy's innate fashion sense and artistic talent made her an ideal collaborator for her official fashion designer, Oleg Cassini. Cassini had been handpicked by Jackie to become her "Secretary of Style" because he had a concrete vision of what Jackie's clothing would look like, and more importantly, what it would represent. He designed 300 outfits for Jackie between 1961-1963. Her evening gowns, day wear, suits, coats, hats, and accessories would create a distinctive "Jackie look" that would mark the reign of the new "American Queen."

Cassini's vision of Jackie coincided with her own, and the two successfully collaborated to set major worldwide fashion trends. In Jackie's wardrobe, you could find all the classic elements of 60s mod--A-line dresses in bright colors and bold patterns, strapless gowns with elbow-length gloves, tailored suits, fur-trimmed coats with oversized collars, buttons, and pockets, and of course, pillbox hats.

This item comes with a Certificate from John Reznikoff, a premier authenticator for both major 3rd party authentication services, PSA and JSA (James Spence Authentications), as well as numerous auction houses.


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April 14, 2021 10:30 AM EDT

Wilton, CT, US

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$100 $299 $20
$300 $499 $25
$500 $999 $50
$1,000 $1,999 $100
$2,000 $2,999 $200
$3,000 $4,999 $250
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$20,000 $49,999 $2,500
$50,000 + $5,000